Saffron
by Craig Arnold
The recipe is written in your voice: Sauté the rice to the color of a pearl in oil flavored with pepper, cinnamon bark, bay leaf and cardamom, the small green kind. Simmer until the spices have all floated up to the top--if you want to, pick them out. Just before it's done, stir in the saffron crumbled and soaked in milk. Such frail red threads, odd how they bleed so yellow, so contrary to what a purple flower's genitals should look like. It was in a dirt-poor dive somewhere in Spain that I had my first taste of paella--how anything could cost so much, I couldn't bring myself to believe until you brought me out into the fields, the ragged sweeps of autumn crocuses. Not like the ones I've seen breaking the frost, clumps of three or four, with the forced cheer of things made to wake up too early --these were a paler purple, less audacious. the harvesters were children, mostly girls, working their way in no special pattern from bloom to bloom. One of them let me plunge my hand up to the wrist in what she'd gathered --they felt like bird's tongues sticking to my skin, spotted with pollen, limp, bruised and damp, with no smell to speak of. That handful dried would not have covered my fingernail, and that from a whole acre. Maybe it ended up in your kitchen, in one of the many dishes you taught me how to make, and which we never ate more than half of--our tongues couldn't absorb that much, so dense and yet so delicate: we'd dull the taste with smoke, knocking the ashes into the champagne flutes you had shipped back from Murano, on our way up to bed. There can't be that much saffron in the world --as if to think it passed through my hands twice would make it all appear less of a waste, that wild, endlessly nuanced fugue of flavor, so much variety, so much to spend. Later, at the end, when I asked you what you wanted if it wasn't me, you smashed the dark brown vial across the counter, swept spice and glass into your hand and said This is my gold standard, my one measure of value, the smell of money burning --anything more expensive would be illegal. I couldn't even begin to afford your taste. My fingers, stained gold with its dirty sting, still look to me like those of a small brown hand drifting across a field, spreading the petals, the womb pinched out like an unsightly hair a thousand times a thousand times over, all for a fleeting pungency, a touch of yellow, all to prove how much attention you command.
Be sure to write a poem or two this month. The world needs more of them.