A Hardworking Saffron Friend

There no matter what ails you.

I came across this recipe for saffron consommé a long time ago in The Pleasures of Cooking, a magazine founded by Carl Sontheimer, the father of the Cuisinart. Sontheimer was something of a marketing genius and first created The Pleasure of Cooking as part of the machines’ manual. The handful of recipes included in the instructions helped buyers to figure out how to use what was then a complex, mysterious gadget.

When the Cuisinart shoved its way onto thousands of kitchen counters, Sontheimer expanded The Pleasure of Cooking into a bimonthly magazine. This is when the magazine came into its own. The pages were covered with recipes and precise lessons on technique from some of the most famous chefs, cookbook authors, and food writers. In each issue, readers learned to make dishes from different countries and cultures. They were introduced to people who are now legends: Edna Lewis, Diana Kennedy, David Bouley, Grace Zia Chu, André Soltner, Marcella Hazan, Madhur Jaffrey, among others. Every issue was a bracing culinary master course.

I reached out to Sontheimer to ask permission to include saffron consommé in my book, A Soothing Broth. Quite truthfully, I told him I learned how to cook from A Pleasure of Cooking. While many recipes demanded expensive ingredients, there were an abundance of historical, regional, and enthic food recipes that helped me to feed my family of four on a weekly grocery allowance of around $40 in fine style. Sontheimer gave me his blessing to reprint the recipe and then sent me the entire collection of The Pleasure of Cooking. I understand I could sell the well-stained lot for a pretty penny, as if I would ever part with them.

My poor tattered and stained treasures.

And now to saffron consommé. It is found on page 54 of A Soothing Broth (my best book!) in a chapter entitled “Honking and Wheezing” which, of course, is about how to bring some comfort and relief to every stage of a lousy cold and/or flu. It is also a helpful remedy for a delicate stomach. The consommé’s power comes from extracting all the fat from the broth through several strains through cheese cloth and a final clarification using a froth of egg whites and crushed egg shells. The result is a delicate brew with a hefty level of nutrition.

Without saffron and bottled to share with a friend.

The recipe may seem time consuming but you’ll find it is actually very easy if you work the steps around your day. A useful trick is to refrigerate the stock overnight. If the weather is cold, I put the bowl outside covered with foil and a lid so the squirrels won’t sniff it. All the remaining fat will rise to the surface and solidify in a sheet that is easily removed.

Once it is cleared, the broth looks humdrum until you stir in the saffron and it turns it into a rosy yellow. The color is part of the magic of saffron consommé. Whether served to lucky patients or guests and family, the color is as enticing as the taste. A little of the consommé goes a long way so serve it hot in small, pretty cups. It will last for about three days refrigerated. Or freeze it, then churn the ice in a processor to make a slush that’s both refreshing and a balm for anyone with a scratchy throat.

Saffron Consommé

White Stock:

5 pounds veal bones (including a knuckle), cracked
2 pounds chicken parts (backs, wings or necks)
1 pound stewing veal, cut into 2-inch cubes
3 quarts water
1 large carrot, peeled, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 rib celery with tops, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 medium leek, trimmed, cleaned and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 onion, peeled and halved
6 parsley sprigs
pinch each of salt and pepper

Put the bones, chicken and veal into a large, 8-quart stock pot. Add water to the level of 2 inches above the bones.

Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, uncovered for 5 minutes.

Drain and rinse bones and meat under cold water to remove all the scum. Rinse and wipe the inside of the stock pot.

Return meat and bones to the stock pot and add the 3 quarts of water. Bring to a boil over high heat, skimming often. Add the remaining ingredients. Reduce the heat, partially cover and simmer gently for about 3 hours. Skim occasionally.

Strain the stock through a double layer of cheesecloth into a bowl. Refrigerate it until any additional fat rises to the top and solidifies. This will make it very easy to scoop off any remaining fat.

The stock keeps, refrigerated and covered, for 3 or 4 days; or it can be frozen for up to 6 months.

Consommé

1 medium onion, grated to make 2 tablespoons
6 cups White Stock, chilled and thoroughly degreased
2 large egg whites
2 eggshells, crushed
1/2 teaspoon saffron threads or 1/4 teaspoon ground saffron
Salt and pepper to taste

Place the grated onion in a fine sieve over a small bowl and press down on it with the back of a spoon to extract the juices. Measure and set aside 1 teaspoon of the onion juice. Discard the rest.

In a 3-quart saucepan bring the stock to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk the egg whites until frothy. When the stock is boiling, stir in the egg whites and egg shells, reduce the heat, and simmer gently, without stirring, for about 20 minutes. Strain the stock into a slightly smaller stock pot through a large sieve, lined with at least four layers of rinsed cheesecloth. Bring to a simmer over moderate heat and stir in the reserved onion juice.

If you are using saffron threads, crush them between your fingers and place in a small dish. Add about 1/4 cup of the hot stock, stir gently to dissolve the saffron, then pour the mixture into the simmering stock. If you are using ground saffron, whisk directly into the stock.

Simmer for 3 to 5 minutes more to allow the flavor to develop. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Makes 6 servings.

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